Reviews & Comments
Houston, TX
A Big, Hot City -
7/11/2017I'll start in saying that I don't like living in Houston and am very much looking forward to moving. In fact, I've become almost obsessive about finding the "perfect" city to relocate to and hence have spent many hours on this site as well as other researching alternatives. Gathering all this information and reading many reviews on many places has been interesting indeed.
As evidenced by many of the reviews for Houston and other cities likewise, background plays a significant role in one's fondness (or lack thereof) for a given area of residence. I come from a plethora of diverse places, almost all of which known in some way for natural beauty of some kind. I was born in Kirkland WA (0-3yrs), lived next in Carmel CA (3-10yrs), followed by Breckenridge CO (10-18yrs), then Tucson AZ (18-21yrs), then Anaheim CA (21-23yrs), then Mesa AZ (23-24yrs), then Pocatello ID (24-27yrs), and finally now Houston TX (27-30yrs). So, based on this list, I've lived in cities and towns of various sizes but almost always in areas with outstanding outdoor recreation opportunities. The exceptions are maybe Anaheim and to some extent Mesa, while Breckenridge was probably the most notably spectacular (or at least, perhaps because I spent what I'll call the golden years of my youth there do I feel this way now).
So, it's no surprise to me that suddenly I find myself asking, "How in the world did I end up in Houston?" Simple answer, (though I am still somewhat in disbelief that I didn't foresee my current dissatisfaction): Work. I came here because I was offered a job with significantly better compensation than an alternative I was presented with in the Salt Lake City UT area following the completion of my education in Pocatello. What I've learned after 3 years is just how much I value the scenic outdoors, 4 seasons (or at least 2), a climate conducive to outdoor recreation for most if not all of the year, a city with a smaller population, fresh air, and perhaps a culture that leans a little on the libertarian/artistic/environmentally-conscious/progressive side (which I do not believe is necessarily specific to any particular political orientation, per se.).
So anyway that all said, Houston is in my experience not a great place for outdoors enthusiasts. Basically, it is a huge flatland with a lot of city sprawl in all directions, as many others have pointed out. It is "green", in the sense that there is plenty of rainfall and therefore lots of large, lush green trees and greenery otherwise (something I was rather impressed with initially after coming from the much drier "high desert" of Idaho). But again, there is so much city everywhere that the effect is often lost, and some areas are much better than others to this effect (while it's usually the more expensive areas that boast the best trees/forests). There are a few fantastic parks within the city, most notably perhaps is Memorial Park. Memorial Park provides a few miles of trails that actually make one feel as though one has stepped into a forest and out of the city, albeit it is often somewhat crowded and by no means can one escape the constant hum of traffic that pervades the city while even at the deepest point within this fairly large park. And, in my experience, these limited trails are fairly easily exhausted after a few weekends, more or less.
There are a few really awesome neighborhoods in Houston, no doubt. Royal oaks, the Rice University area, the Galleria/Memorial area, and the Heights come to mind. Personally I consider Royal Oaks the cream of the crop; absolutely beautiful houses situated underneath a wonderful canopy of huge majestic trees. I am taken aback every time I drive through there. Of course, you need about a bazillion dollars to live in Royal oaks, and maybe at least a million or so for the other neighborhoods I've just mentioned, but nonetheless just their very presence improves the city's rating in my opinion, plus provide an activity when one just feels like taking a drive through a nice area. (And yes of course I'm exaggerating a bit. I haven't really studied the real estate prices in these areas so there may be more affordable options but generally these are the more expensive areas as I understand it.)
Houston does have a lot of ethnic diversity, though different ethnic groups do tend to segregate themselves "residentially", it seems. There are as I understand it a lot of non-natives because a lot of people relocate here for work (due to the strong job market and high wage-to-cost-of-living ratio). I don't interact a great deal with more than a handful of people in general, but that said, people seem normal, kind, etcetera (though then again, I feel that way about virtually anywhere I go, so that may be more of a perspective thing than anything else.) Drivers do seem a bit more "aggressive" than other places I've lived, but I think this is out of necessity because it takes so long to get around as it is. It's something that I think a person can adapt to in a relatively short amount of time and then it's no big deal (or at least was the case for me). However, yes, traffic can get pretty bad, especially during the commute times of the work week and in certain areas. Once you figure out what times and places/roads to avoid (during those times) you can work around them (if possible). Not always the most convenient thing, but it is what it is. You can also pay to use a fairly extensive toll road system that at times can help reduce the commute time.
On the plus side I very rarely have an issue with traffic on the weekends except in a few select areas perhaps. But here's the kicker; even without traffic, it takes a long time to get places. This is particularly true if you like to go to the finest establishments but don't live near them. For instance, I now live in Missouri City (southwest suburb of Houston) and if I want to go to the aforementioned Memorial Park, it takes at least 30 minutes each way. If I want to go to Fat Cat Creamery (one of Houston's best ice cream parlors), it takes even longer. There are plenty of closer options yes but it seems to me like the best places are somewhat few and far in between and once you map out your favorites you may find they are scattered over a pretty wide-reaching radius. Or in other words, compared to some other big cities, notable destinations are spread out and there is not really a strong public transit system to connect them. (I guess it depends on what you're going for, but as for us we spend a fair amount of time driving to and fro.)
Houston has pretty awesome museum and theater districts. It also has a great zoo. I've never been to the Aquarium but have heard it is also very nice. Houston's downtown proper is a bit strange in that if feels rather uninhabited. There are a handful of remarkable skyscrapers which is nice to go see once and a while, and there is also an underground network of air-conditioned tunnels downtown so pedestrians can beat the heat in the summer (which is pretty neat if you ask me). There seems to be plenty of events in Houston. Food selection/availability abounds, with several well-represented farmers markets held several times a week pretty much year round (though you may have to drive quite a ways to get there, depending on where you end up). There's several Sprouts, Whole Foods, Trader Joe's (though once again somewhat spread out, as the city is just so darn big!), as well as Kroger, HEB, and Randalls. There's a great farm that sells raw milk and dairy (Gramen Farm), albeit located pretty far out northwest in Tomball. There are lots of great restaurant options.
So I think what it comes down to (at least as far as this review is concerned) is this: If you love being in nature... If you place a high value on scenery and easy access to relatively secluded outdoor recreation... if outdoor culture and mentality is a top priority for you, I do NOT recommend Houston. I'd advise against it if at all possible under these conditions. I'd like to think that no matter where you are you can find natural beauty and connect with nature, and while that may be true even of Houston, I'd have to say there are many alternatives that are far better in this regard. Likewise, if you have a fondness for winter, snow, the seasons and/or a low tolerance for heat, humidity, or muggy conditions, try to avoid Houston. Even if you aren't a particularly outdoors-oriented person, realize that for probably at least 6 months it ranges from somewhat to extremely uncomfortable outside because of the particular climate. Pests such as mosquitoes and cockroaches and fire ants are also more prevalent here than elsewhere, I believe it is fair to say, which can make the outdoors (or even indoors, in the case of roaches) less appealing.
All this is pretty well stated elsewhere but I just wanted to contribute my take. Money can be good here and if you have enough there are some pretty darn nice areas. If you aren't that big into the outdoors and don't mind the heat too much, don't like winter (as in the kind with snow and leaves falling and such... Houston does have a month or two of cold weather but it hardly qualifies as winter in any traditional sense IMHO), want a lot of amenities and shops and restaurants and the like but don't necessarily want one or two centralized cultural centers (i.e. don't mind if a lot of the best venues are spread out over a fairly wide geographic area), don't mind driving a lot and/or in traffic, don't mind being around a lot of people pretty much all the time, and like taking cruises out of the Gulf of Mexico, Houston may suit you just fine.
If I was going to stay in Texas, I'd much prefer San Antonio or Austin. These are located farther inland in hill country, so essentially they are quite a bit more scenic. In fact, their proximity to Houston provides another "pro" for Houston, as these cities offer recreational opportunities (such as a plethora of natural bodies of water for water sports/recreation) that are within distance for even a day trip. They also offer some unique culture and architecture (such as the State Capitol of Austin or the various historic missions of San Antonio). But alas, I myself need to migrate north. Houston has provided a great contrast for me. Even somebody who's never lived here probably could have told me that a city of 7 million in the deep southeast would be hot, humid, a lot of concrete and traffic, and not much in natural beauty. But I guess I had to experience it for myself to know what I truly want.
Amidst all the inevitable compromises, may you also find what you truly want.